Finishing? with Voyageurs National Park

Shortly after coming home, my family made the goal to visit every state park—and we completed that in under a little less than three years. We also tacked our National Parks onto our goal—there are only three: Voyageur’s, Pipestone and the Mississippi River Visitor Center. Voyageur’s National Park was the last of our parks on the list. My children’s summer schedules keep me extremely busy and there is not enough time for camping. Well, at least for me—never enough time for camping for me. However, last year, prior to my daughter starting college under the Minnesota Post Secondary Options act, I wanted to make sure we had completed everything.

We had finished visiting all of our state parks the year before—but, Voyageurs, so far up there on the Canadian border, had seemed so elusive. Voyageur’s has three visitor centers: Rainy Lake in International Falls, Kabetogama (south of International Falls) and Ash River in Ely. The center in Ely is only open seasonally during summer months. Each has some exhibits on wildlife and life as a voyageur.

We finally made it to the International Falls center and took a great tour of the park on a pontoon boat. We got to see a gold mine and an old fishing camp. It was interesting to hear about the gold mining that once took place here—never profitable, the gold mines were eventually abandoned. Since private cabins have been taken over by the National Park Service, the cabins have fallen into serious disrepair and the surrounding area is returning to a natural state. It was really funny to see an outhouse deteriorated so badly that the only remaining part was the toilet seat—the white ring sticking out of the lush green surrounding. Maybe a little elementary humor, but my kids were very amused (maybe me too). I met someone whose family’s cabin was taken under eminent domain when the park was created to help preserve a large tract of the boundary waters and accompanying wilderness. Though her family has a few more years to use the cabin they are not allowed to improve the structure. I believe the cabin will be eliminated after that time period has ended. As a park lover, I appreciate her family’s sacrifice. I don’t think that was any consolation.

It is a beautiful park that can make you easily think about what life in these woods would have been like before modernization or European contact. It, like so many other places, is dealing with invasive species, for them it is the water flea. To help combat the spread of the flea, private boats are limited and not permitted on interior lakes of the park. I enjoyed the park—but like so many things people visit, our visit didn’t do this park justice. There were so many things that I would have liked to do: canoeing, more hiking and exploring. I hope we can get to the Ely center this summer some time to get some camping in. We hope to see the other sites up there that we have been missing: the North American Bear Center, the International Wolf Center and Eagle Mountain—the highest point in Minnesota. How is it possible that every time we visit somewhere we only seem to add to our list of places to go and people to see?

In the midst of the woods: The Forest History Center

I think my spring fever is still growing and I keep pondering summer time fun. One place I have been thinking about is the Forest History Center, located in Grand Rapids—North Central Minnesota. It is a living history museum operated seasonally by the Minnesota Historical Society. With so much to do, we have managed to miss this wonderful place several times on camping trips in the area either because we were just too busy or we were around during the off season. We finally made it last year. I had always wanted to bring my mom up there, but after visiting, I am not sure she could handle the walking—I will have to see if there is a way around it. Located in the woods, it is a wonderful site to learn about how the loggers worked.



Logging was a convenient occupation for farmers who wanted to supplement their income because the majority of work can only take place during the winter months when the ground is frozen. The loggers would fell the trees and bring them to the river to be floated to the sawmills to the south during the heightened water levels of the spring thaw. Floating the logs was a dangerous job; men died getting the logs clear when the inevitable jams would occur.


The history center does a great job of interpreting camp life—the loggers’ quarters, the store and the dining hall. The
boys even had a chance to saw some logs—now if only I had such an effective way to harness that at home! They also got to see an example of a boat that would have been used to cook the meals for the men floating the logs down the rivers. They also saw a fire tower that would have been used in later years after the Civilian Conservation Corps had replanted the forests. Though the tower was closed on our visit, we have climbed similar towers. What a climb the towers bring, but—man, what a view! They also had these cute little sheds that would have been placed throughout the area to help firefighters when fires broke out. I know, cute probably isn’t the word people want used with fire equipment—but cute they are. The entire area is nestled into a beautiful area and is criss-crossed with scenic hiking trails.


The inside exhibits have fine displays for people to see vehicles used in the logging industry. My daughter loved the truck cab from the 60's. They also have ones used currently--a John Deere vehicle that has been developed to help loggers prevent damage to the forest and the trees not being harvested. Very cool! I would like to go back there, but with so many things—how do we choose? As many times that we have driven through Duluth to the north shore, we haven’t done a great deal in the city itself. Between issues with my mom’s mobility and my kids’ desire to see stuff within the city—maybe we should go that route. With the history center only an hour from my mom, maybe it is worth the attempt anyway. We’ll see.

Finding Camp Rabideau: a gem in the forest

It is early spring here in Southern Minnesota—with little snow remaining, there remains a possibility of more snow despite the chirping birds that are preparing their nests. This is the time of year I most want to go camping—I enjoy winter, but when it’s over, I want to dig out the tents. The best I can do is think of past trips and plan future ones. I have been reminiscing of a trip we took to northern Minnesota when lessons of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) became an indelible part of our memory. There are many examples of the work of the CCC throughout Minnesota—and the United States. However, there are only three camps that have substantial character remnants of the entire camp. Only one’s character has remained unaffected enough to qualify to be included on the National Register of Historical Places: CCC Camp Rabideau. This gem is tucked into the background of the surrounding countryside of a remote part of north central Minnesota. We discovered this completely by accident on a camping trip to Red Lake.



My mom had repeatedly expressed a desire to be included on our camping trips. We had gone “up north” with her so she could enjoy spending time with us on “those camping trips of [ours].” As we drove to Red Lake, we passed a small sign announcing the presence of the camp. Having pitched many tents in the dark, we wanted to ensure we didn’t do that with Grandma; we waited to drive in on our return trip. I had worried that perhaps, I had made the wrong decision when it took so long to find it on our way back, but we did indeed find it and it was worth the wait. The camp remains under the control of the US Forestry Service in the Chippewa National Forest in Northern Minnesota—though I suspect someday it will be transferred to the National Park Service like Camp Coldwater in St. Paul.



It was amazing to see the site returning to a condition that is more reminiscent of its natural state. The 112 acres was purchased in 1934 and had been stripped of the forest covering by the lumber barons. The “boys” of the camp arrived to a bare ground that they were able to set up a baseball field on. This is a hard fact to digest given that the millions of trees that the CCC had planted have now grown to a rich forest—though certainly not to the massive sizes that existed prior to the invasion of the lumber companies. When we were there two years ago, the camp was staffed by volunteers—some who where there as boys.


The stories were wonderful. One of my favorite was about a couple of boys that snuck out after lights out to go fishing. Caught by the Commanding Officer, they were worried they were going to be sent home—a terrifying prospect for boys who knew that their families needed the money that was sent home during such desperate times of the Great Depression. The commanding officer insisted that the boys “do what needed to be done” and fry the fish and share the meal with him. Two years later—and the story still gets to a soft spot in me. I hope the stories are documented for the inevitable time when the boys are no longer around.


Though no admission is charged or even asked for—a donation bucket at the end will accept any free will offering—no gift is ever too small. The monies collected are accepted very gratefully and are used for future restorations. A site definitely worth seeing—I hope you can enjoy the trip and benefit from the “boys” who are still there sharing their time, energy and wonderful experiences of a bygone era.

Sue the T Rex visits Minnesota

Sue the T Rex recently made a visit to central Minnesota. The Stearns County Historical Society hosted the dinosaur. Though the exhibit (in St. Cloud--central Minnesota) was quite a distance from us--we have to go very near it when we bring my mother back from my home in Southeastern Minnesota. When she returned home after the Christmas holiday, we were able to sneak a visit at the end of her stay.

Sue was discovered in Western South Dakota on a private landowner's land who was part Sioux who lived within the bounds of the Cheyenne River Sioux Reservation. After her discovery, there was an extensive legal battle over her. After five years, the skeleton was placed in trust for the landowner. Eventually the government put her up for sale for the rancher and was placed on the auction block at Sotheby's. In eight short minutes, Fields Museum had the highest bid with $8.4 million. The traveling Sue is a cast of her skeleton. There is also a touchable cast that goes with the traveling exhibit. At 42 feet in length, she is thirteen feet high (The Fields Museum website states that she is both 12 and 13 feet high.) Sue may in fact be a male--but was named after the dinosaur's discoverer.

The museum has allowed both researchers and visitors to see her. It was exciting to see her, but there were some interactive exhibits that allowed visitors to experience the sight that different species of dinosaurs may view Sue in. It was difficult for my kids to see with the eyepieces set at angles that are simply not compatible with human beings. The sight enabled the others to better watch for their predators.


We also went through the rest of the County Historical Society. It was interesting to see the industrial history and the mock quarry that explains the rock that has been so crucial to the area's economic development. The granite that has been used in buildings throughout the United States.


This wedding cake is on display as well. Made for Max and Veronica Mock of Avon, they were unable to eat it because grandparents became ill. Though they intended to eat it shortly afterward, it was never consumed. On their 25th Wedding anniversary, it was encased in glass. The frosting was tan--I am unsure if this is because the icing turned color or if it was made this way. The cake was baked on October 25, 1932. EWWWWW GROSS! I am left wondering how it survived without the preservatives that we use today. Makes me think that snacks may not need as many as are put in. It looked like the museum may have some promising exhibits coming up--we will be keeping an eye out.

American Fences at the Zumbrota Area Historical Society

Near us, in a small town about an hour south of the Twin Cities named Zumbrota, there is a local historical society. I love that people are working to preserve their heritage. While larger organizations may have more resources--they also have larger responsibilities. Despite the Minnesota Historical Society's impressive record on statewide history and their archives, (I toured their archives once, very cool and state of the art) larger groups simply cannot preserve all the little nuances of small town life. There are just too many small towns and too many stories.


Many people assume smaller history centers lack quality because of their lack of resources. I worked in a county museum once--it had some very good work. However, that did not keep me from wondering how good a small town museum really could be. I admit it and I admit I was wrong. Very wrong. The Zumbrota Area Historical Society turned the old fire hall into a museum. It has gotten grants for their work and they recently lobbied to get the Smithsonian traveling exhibit on fences.

Years ago, I visited the Smithsonian in Washington with my then four year old daughter. It was massive, left me breathless and feeling like I had barely scratched the surface. (Because I had barely scratched it!) I questioned when I would ever get their again. I am lucky--the museum came to me. Well, not me personally but it came to my area. In their exhibit on fences, the museums are able to convey how important they are. From the earliest split rail colonial fences to the invention of barbed wire, fences have reflected the careless approach to natural resources that horrified 17th century Europeans who knew of the clear cutting of American forests to the mechanized manufacture of the barbs that made fencing easier and more economical.




The exhibit also discusses the history of free range laws--how people used to build fences to keep livestock OUT of areas, rather than confined IN areas. While some states still have free range laws, incoming residents are challenging those laws and sometimes creating conflict. The laws also reflected discriminatory attitudes of the time. African Americans and immigrants who had often had sheep were often required to fence in their livestock, while white males who owned cattle could allow their stock to roam free. The same needs, but different animals of different peoples were treated differently. It is a very thought provoking exhibit. I am impressed with both the quality and the value of it. Fences will be at the Zumbrota Area Historical Society until the end of January. It will then move onto the Minnesota towns of Fergus Falls and Roseau.


Zumbrota was fortunate--I understand that it was only one of five places in the state to be chosen for siting of the exhibit. I had wanted to bring my mother before she returned home. I discovered days before that it was only open on the weekends. I felt silly. On the door was listed two contacts to arrange an alternate time. Only in a small town could I contact a person and have them open the museum just for us. Though the museum was free, it was only right to make a donation. Thank you A for doing that for us!! There are many traveling exhibits, people may visit the website for American sites to find a local one. I caution Minnesotans: the map link for the state seemed to be dead today, however, clicking on the word name will work. Exhibits also travel the globe; people interested in that may visit the traveling exhibits home page. This is something that I would definitely do again!!!

Titanic--nearing a century later

The Science Museum of Minnesota has a temporary exhibit on the Titanic. My daughter--a little Titanic nut around here, has wanted to see this exhibit since she heard it was coming a year ago. We finally went to see it on Sunday with my mom and a friend of my daughter. We once saw a Titanic exhibit at the Hampton Roads Marine Science Museum in Newport News, Virginia. I anticipated the exhibit to have much of the same materials. It was missing a deck chair discovered in an attic and verified years ago and a lifeboat. In many ways it did mirror the other--especially the large model and the cards assigning each visitor a person on the ship that left you wondering if you survived til the end. However, there were additional items that I thought were very noteworthy.

As a former museum archivist, I understand the need to preserve artifacts. Light and camera flashes can be very damaging to materials. In this respect, the museum's policy on no cameras makes sense. However, as a visitor, reporter and blogger--it was killing me. I LOVE my camera and taking photos. There was an opportunity for people to stand in front of a green screen and have a photo taken. Of course, the picture was available for purchase at the end of the exhibit where a special gift shop had been set up. People could pay six bucks for a single photo or get four for twenty five. I purchased four pictures. Merchandising may be inevitable, the photos a tad cheesy, but to an avid scrapbooker, it seemed totally reasonable. There was no way I was walking out of there without something for the scrapbook.

The exhibit shows the lavishness of the ship with a reproduction first class cabin and a dining room nook. People walked through stands of artifacts that were recovered from the site. For me the best part was a darkened room that had a backdrop of lights set up to resemble the night Arctic sky. In front of the lit cloth set an enormous block of ice that people could place their hand on. It was cold. Everyone knows ice is cold. As Minnesotans, we grow up throwing snowballs if we have gloves on or not. But to hold your hand on this enormous block of ice was an intimidating experience. Even more so when the fact that salty sea water freezes at 28 degrees--lower than the 32 degree freezing point of fresh water. Most of the people who died in the catastrophe did not die from drowning. Hypothermia was the major killer.

The exhibit discusses the tragedy of the deaths and the futility of the half empty life rafts. It also explains the miracle of the Carpathia radio man getting the plea for help at all. It speaks of the tragedy of how so many died--how horrible it was for people to say goodbye and ripped from loved ones. It speakes of the testament of love when the founders of Macy's refused to part. Mrs. Strauss refused to leave--"so they lived, they would die: together." Nearly a century after the great tragedy, the event was still powerful and moving. A section of the exhibit explains the rescue role the Carpathia played and the devastating wail of widows. The Carpathia shared the fate of the Titanic, sinking a few short years later during the first world war. The science behind the recovery is remarkable. Many times, iron, protected and destroyed by the sea simultaneously, can explode if exposed directly to the air when retrieved.

We finished the visit with a viewing of the omni movie: Titanica. My daughter really would love to go to the Titanic museum in Branson, Missouri; the museum at Nova Scotia and of course, the those in Liverpool and the Southampton. There is an online museum, (a search will bring many good ones) that has some interesting photos in case St. Paul is too far from you. We look forward to the upcoming exhibit on the Dead Sea Scrolls and the Science Museum's annual Omnifest where many films are played during a few weeks. This year's films include: Africa's Giant Elephant, Into the Deep, Van Gogh: Brush with Genius, Greatest Places and Ski to the Max.

Agricultural and small town historical interpretations

The county I live in has several organizations dedicated to the preservation of our history. The town I work in is no different. They have been working for years to get a building and succeeded in doing so. Sunday they had an open house--even with its limited resources it was way cool.


In addition to its community holdings, the museum has several pieces or historic equipment used in farming. During its open house, the museum had volunteers that shelled corn (both popcorn and field corn,) spinning and rope making. Some of the equipment hasn't been used in daily life for a very long time, but the volunteers both estimated that the rope making and sheller where probably used into the 50's. The rope maker was purchased by one of the volunteer's father 75 years ago for 49 cents. It is hard to imagine something we see as so simple being such a time savor and so essential on a farm.


Both were also described as tedious and frustrating. The gentleman who had been working on shelling the corn showed us his fingers from manual shelling--the dry cracks looked like they hurt. Even as slow as this simple sheller was, it sure looked better than doing it with fingers! My daughter had come with me and we both got to bring rope home--it was neat to have. My boys both regretted not coming with...hope they think about it next year!

The Hill Grandeur on Summit Avenue

Sunday afternoon, we went to the James J. Hill House on Summit Avenue in St. Paul after our failure at the Minnesota Children's Museum. This kids and I have been here more than once to discuss the industrial revolution and the importance of rail for American expansionism. However, John usually does not get to come with us. I had considered doing this Saturday afternoon while waiting for my daughter's zoo training to finish, but we burned some more energy off instead.



The James J. Hill house has 36,000 square feet of room in the building. No longer a private home, it is a museum owned by the Minnesota Historical Society. The beautiful sandstone home displays two shades of stone. The Archdiocese attempted to clean the stone when the building was in its possession--though they stopped when they realized the stone was being damaged by its attempts. The home overlooks St. Paul, and is impressive from both the font and the back.



The home had a school room, a boiler room, a naturally lit art gallery, an enormous two story pipe organ and a grand staircase. The area at the bottom served as a ballroom when special doors to the front were opened when the family entertained. The house also had a shower in each male bedroom--considered a form of massage at the time and a hybrid of gas and electric lights--considered innovations at the time it was built in 1891. Hill also made sure the structure used steel as its structure rather than wood, to help in fire proofing efforts. This steel is still visible above the art gallery. Also visible is Carnegie's stamp on the steel beams. Mrs. Hill did not entertain in the home again after her husband's death in 1916. It is a marvelous place to visit--though the envy drained from me quickly when the guide stated that it cost $19,000 to heat it two years ago before energy prices sky rocketed. Still a grand place to visit.

Latvia at the Landmark

The Sunday prior to Easter, my boys, mom and I went to the Landmark Center for one of their "trips" around the world. Sunday happened to be Latvia. We enjoyed learning about the culture, geography and government. There were Latvian dancers and singers. We learned that the oldest examples of mittens were found at an archaeological site in Latvia. My kids located the country on a map, viewed lots of pictures and really enjoyed the afternoon.


We also got to see traditionally dyed Easter eggs. It is inspiring us to attempt to do some like it. I think that would be incredible. We also toured the public exhibit owned by the Ramsey County Historical Society of the cyanotypes of the Mississippi River by Henry Bosse.


I was sad that my daughter didn't come with us, but she made the very grown up decision to stay and work on a paper she has been trying to finish. Standing outside the Landmark, we also got to see statues of Linus and Lucy from Schultz's cartoon Snoopy. Shultz was a Minnesota native and there are Linus, Lucy and Snoopy statues all over the city. Sadly, most of the Snoopy's were auctioned a while back and are no longer on public display.

The Birthplace of Minnesota

After my daughter's writing class in the cities, we took the chance to visit Camp Coldwater--the Birthplace of Minnesota. This spring is where Colonel Leavenworth moved the military encampment from their original location on the Minnesota River where the people did not have healthy water to drink the first three years while the original Fort Snelling was built.


The Bureau of Mines under the Department of the Interior built a research facility at the location. It was officially closed in 1995 and has sat unused. the main building pictured here is in relatively good condition, all things considered. I actually didn't think the building was horrible looking--though very dated. Other buildings on the site have not fared so well.


Buildings have been vandalized pretty badly and the roads, parking lots and outlying structures are hurting. A year ago we had heard about the site and had wanted to see it. We put it off because I kept forgetting my ID--which at the time we needed to be granted access. When people heard that the site may be sold to the city to create a commuter's parking lot, many organized to try to save it. The site is considered sacred by the Dakota people. Unfortunately, the site is also heavily polluted from the time of the Bureau of Mines' tenure there. The water is actually green. It is incredibly sad, but I think the site might be cleaned up. It would make a great place for a museum if it is salvageable, but think they will probably be demolished. The National Park Service seems to be working on a future for it.

Traces: documenting the WWII POW experiences in Minnesota

Traces museum, which had been located at the Landmark center closed last November. A truly sad day, not just Minnesota lost with this institution's doors closing. Dedicated to several lesser known parts of World War Two, the museum worked to inform people both about what American men suffered in German POW camps, and how, through compassionate treatment, German POW's in the United States had to address the differences between what Germans had learned to expect because of propaganda at home and the realities of the treatments they received here while removed from their homeland.

It is unfortunate that I waited to visit the museum. Upon looking for the hours tonight for a planned visit tomorrow. I was sad to discover it was too late--reminding me once more to try to make efforts to seize the moment because moments may not be there the next day. I learned of this museum two years ago when visiting a function at the Landmark and I had always intended to go back, too busy to make the time tight then. I am sad and it truly is a loss--not just for the Twin Cities, the region, or the United States. This organization really had significant impact.

I hope beyond any measurable intensity, that the mission of Traces survives. People may still visit them online. I wish them all the best.

This amazing summer

I have never, ever had a summer so very busy. I am very proud of my family and the hard work they do. My boys completed swimming lessons a couple weeks ago, completing levels three and four. I almost put them in another round of lessons, but they are taking lessons with the horses for a few weeks.

We have all been very busy at RideAbility. I am extremely happy that even my younger boys have decided to help as much as they can. My older boy who will be 11 in just a few weeks has become very aware of his power to make a difference. How fast they grow up. We all went and helped put up hay at the barn--even my husband, poor thing, came after having a very busy week. As much as I see all of us growing, I will be happy at the end of the year. It has been a very hard summer on my energy.

My mother was diagnosed with cancer; it was hard to think about losing her after Dad only going a year and a half ago. I am happy that she is doing well. I was also glad that I spent time with my mom this past month. It has been hard because of Dad being gone, it was nice to get her out and see some great things. We went up to Big Bog State Recreation Area and saw the bog. We also went by Camp Rabideau in Northern Minnesota. This former CCC camp is one of the last ones left. The other two have been changed so much so that they are not eligible for recognition as a National Historic Landmark. I think she enjoyed herself. We all learned so much. Her mother passed away this past week and it reminds you that life is short. I feel badly for my mom, though I was never close to her mother.

My daughter also made contact with her biological father's adoptive dad. Confusing, I know. He was a nice guy; I support her fully. Supporting her completely doesn't make the thought of eventually dealing with my ex husband easy though. I was young and dumb and must share the burden in the failure of our marriage, though I truly believed I tried harder. No matter, though, I do not think we were ever compatible because our wants and needs are on opposite ends of the spectrum. I always wanted a close family and he just never was. It simply was a relationship that was never meant to be a lasting one. I am comforted by her level head and awareness. She is a good girl and I have been very, very blessed. I am confident in her and our family. I even hope for the newest family of my ex, that the problems we had, are no longer an issue. I just hope she isn't hurt. The funniest thing I am finding about this is that while she is compiling genealogy information, which prompted contact by an internet server, she is absolutely amazed to the secrecy surrounding adoption records. I think it is because I have always been so open. I am glad I was.

Cold Camping on the Iron Range

Last week, my children and I went ventured to Northern Minnesota and went winter camping at Savanna Portage State Park. Having had friends from across the states, many would think we were insane. Truth be told, many here thought we were crazy--maybe even a little of ourselves did. However crazy it sounds, we went.

The days weren't too bad at about 38 degrees Fahrenheit; even the nights only went down to about 27. While the temps may sound cool to non-Minnesotans, they really were not horrible. I felt a tad guilty calling it "winter" camping when it was that warm. It was truly spring camping, though we had plenty of snow on the ground surrounding the camping pad that had been plowed clear. We used several layers of blankets under and over our bags and slept fully covered. The worst part was getting out in the morning.

While we were there, we did an oral interview with an old miner and went to Ironworld. Ironworld, since renamed the Minnesota Discovery Center, is a cute museum in Chisholm which is dedicated to the history of mining on the Iron range of Northern Minnesota. We also did a small hike, though that was kept short because of the snow. Walking in snow is kind of like walking in sand--it takes a lot of work!

My kids learned more about mining, saw some incredible sights and realized that they are survivors. I think it was an wonderful experience that built both their understanding of our history and of their inner strengths. I loved it!